To be strong and effective, the depth of the kiwi roots must extend into the surrounding soil. Kiwis can also become infected with Armillaria root rot, often leading to complete collapse. We explain it here in detail. There are three kiwi varieties in the US that we can grow for fruit. Fuzzy Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa) is a variety that produces the brown fuzzy Kiwi we often find in stores. It is a very strong wine that hardens to about 0°F. Hardy Kiwi (Actinidia arguta) produces small, very sweet, and delicious fruits with smooth skin that can be eaten like grapes. It is also a very vigorous grape and, depending on the variety, can withstand minus 25°F or less. Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi like an area with at least half a day of sun. Arctic Beauty (Actinidia kolomikta) is a relatively compact vine that also produces small but delicious soft-skinned fruits. Site selection - All kiwis like well-drained soil, from clay to sandy. Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi will last 1/2 day in full sun. Arctic Beauty Kiwi likes a place with a bit of shade and thrives best in a partially shaded gazebo or on the north side of a wall or fence. If your soil is very wet, you can add mulch several inches above the soil surface. This way, the water can escape from the roots. 
Support - Kiwis are all vine climbers. Due to their vigor and abundant yield, Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi need a gazebo, trellis, or other sturdy support. A typical gazebo for these types is about 12 feet long, 6 feet wide, and 6 feet high. Use pressure treated 4×6 or larger and 4×4, 2×6, or larger blocks for your gazebo. Extra strong New Zealand style fence iron works best 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart on cross branches. Arctic Beauty Kiwi is not very vigorous and produces small fruits, so it can be grown on a wall, fence, garden shed, or other similar supports. Planting kiwis
- Prepare the plant – When planting a compact tree rootstock, check the roots and trim any broken or overgrown wood.
When planting a plant in a pot, remove the pot and loosen the roots. If it's thick enough, you can lay the tree down and press firmly against the stump with your thumb. Remove some of the stems and trim if they are too long.
- Prepare the site - If you have grass in your growing area, start by removing a layer of thin mulch 2-3 inches thick in a circle. Elimination is important because grass competes with new plants for water and nutrients.
In this freshly cleared area, dig a hole big enough and deep enough to reach the roots. After digging the hole, cut the sides with a chisel so that your plant's roots can spread out more easily. 
- Planting - If the seedlings have no roots, look for the soil on the trunk. This is indicated by a change in color, usually from dark yellow to yellow or black.
Make sure this area is not lower than the ground level around the planting hole. For potted plants, it is important that the soil edge of the potted plant is not smaller than the edge of the plant that surrounds the root hole. Planting too deep can kill kiwis. Make sure the leaves have propagated into the root hole and fill in the soil that has been removed. Until the soil is around the roots and when the hole is filled, pat the soil down and water the plant thoroughly. Note We recommend that you fill the box with compost and remove it. We do not recommend adding any additives or other materials to this floor. To be strong and vigorous, your kiwi roots must grow into the surrounding soil. Once your new plant is in the ground, you can add compost, manure, and other materials to the soil to feed the plant naturally. Fertilization and Water Management - Due to their vigor and rapid growth, Fuzzy and Hardy kiwifruit can use a lot of nitrogen. 
After the first year, 1/2 pound of nitrogen each year in early spring will ensure good growth throughout the summer. We recommend using organic nitrogen sources. For example, if an organic fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, apply 10 kg. to each plant. After 4-5 years, the amount of nitrogen is increased to 1 kg/year. Arctic Beauty Kiwis also benefit from annual feeding, but due to their low vigor, they should not need more than half Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwis. All kiwis have deep, spreading roots and need plenty of water during the growing season. Roll the plants 4 to 6 inches deep into a circle 2 to 3 feet wide, which will hold water and repel weeds. Grass, straw, or compost are good composting materials. In hot weather, watering once a week is sufficient. Be sure to check the soil and be careful not to overwater your plants. Reduce watering in early fall to harden off your plants through winter. Pruning and Training - After pruning, secure the tree with a log or other support to keep it straight. Once the roots are established, and growth has begun, your Kiwi will likely produce one or more sturdy shoots near the base of the tree. 
Once these seedlings have reached about 2 feet tall, tie them securely to a tree trunk and let them grow to the top of your canopy. Raise other shrubs at this time to avoid competing with your choice. When the canopy reaches the top of the canopy or support, you can remove the remaining weaker branches and leave the chosen kiwi vine-covered. When the rootstock has passed the top of your bush, cut off the tip and let the top two shoots grow. Train these new shrubs to grow into the wires or structure of your pergola or trellis and secure them firmly. These new roots form side panels and become the permanent structure of your Kiwi. By the end of the second year, you should have a good teacher for your Kiwi. In the second winter, the new strips (lateral buds) are cut in 10-12 points. Lateral shoots from these basal buds produce buds that can produce primary branches and fruit. Train the same rootstock on a tree or shrub to extend the edge and repeat pruning the following winter. Continue this process until the threads reach the limit of your support. Pruning Annual pruning during dormancy is important for good fruit production. Pruning is best done in December or January and consists of pruning new trees from the previous year to 10-12 bushes and removing old trees if this is already profitable. 
Also, splinters, splinters, and broken stumps should be removed, as well as those extending from one side of the stump to the other. All ropes attached to the floor should be removed or attached to the support. Pruning and observing your Kiwi will give you an idea of what needs to be kept and what needs to be removed. Male plants are planted and pruned just like female plants, but because they are planted only for their flowers, they require only about 1/4 of the trellis space and can be pruned deeper. Remember that Fuzzy and Hardy kiwis can take 3-4 years or more to start flowering and fruiting. Spring Frost Protection - Depending on the variety, kiwifruit can withstand temperatures from 0°F to minus 40°F in temperatures below about 31°F. Once the plants start to flower and frost approaches, the easiest way to prevent damage is to spray your plants with water overnight. When ice is applied to the plant, the temperature of the leaves will not drop below 32°F. If the tree is small, you can just cover it with plastic wrap or fabric. 
Fuzzy Kiwi Winter Care - While the Fuzzy Kiwi can reach 0°F, the sun is used when the overnight temperature drops above 20°F, which can cause sap that can freeze and sprout legacy. In severe cases, this can cause stem tightness and top death. While the roots may appear at the base, the top of the tree disappears. The best way to prevent this damage is to wrap the bottom 2-3 feet of the tree with some type of insulation or reflective material. Painting the trunk with a 50/50 mixture of water and white paint on the inside can also help prevent this damage. Additionally, mulching the bark with straw or other material will also help protect your Fuzzy Kiwi during harsh winter weather. Signs and symptoms of the rots Occasionally white mycelium(a kind of rot) can be found under the canopy above ground, but more often, white mycelium is laced with dark spine patches. 
The dark roots look like rhizomes that grow from the stem into the soil after disease symptoms have formed on the vines. Notes on the disease The fungal pathogen lives for years on the infected plant and roots underground. Plant roots can become infected by contact with inoculum from a previous fruit crop, nearby oak trees, or tree residues infected with Armillaria when the soil is cleaned and prepared for kiwifruit cultivation. While kiwifruit plants can tolerate this heat a bit, death can be accelerated by an A. mela attack. Sometimes heavy rains spread bacterial colonies in a vineyard. The mushroom prefers soil that is always moist. Although the virus can cause inflammation around the base of grapes, they are not considered an important factor in the spread of the disease. Management When clearing soil for planting or replanting vines, carefully remove and burn roots 1 inch or more in diameter. Make sure the vines are well watered and don't overwater