to install ceramic on wall that is made of concrete is a discreet choice because you have the necessary strength accompanies with a sense of beauty brought by the tile both in one place together. For concrete such as wall tiles, the primary concern here is that the wall in our home is untreated concrete. Plastering and brushing are two options for tiling this sort of wall, in my view, if it has to be done. After the treatment, tiles can be adhered to the concrete wall; otherwise, the tiles cannot be adhered directly to the concrete wall. Plastering a wall is the scheme (1). The so-called plastering procedure entails that if tiles are to be adhered to a concrete wall, the wall must be plastered and a homogeneous cement mortar plastering layer must be achieved. 
To assure the solidity of our tile paste, we have included a specific ingredient. It can be handled specifically according to the instructions below. Spraying or brushing the hair. As long as we are applying plaster to the concrete wall, we must take measures to reinforce it. Because the surface of the concrete is excessively smooth, a releasing agent may also be present. In order to improve plastering, we must take supplementary measures, such as using spray hair or brush hair. The specialized substance consists of combining cement slurry and a specified amount of adhesive to create a spray material, and then spraying hair on the wall. Hanging net and plastering. The hanging net may be built of alkali-resistant glass fiber mesh or steel wire mesh. The customary procedure is to first apply a coating of bottom ash to the bottom surface, i.e. a thin layer of ash, then push the mesh into place, and finally plaster as usual. If it is a steel mesh, I propose nailing it to the concrete wall using special steel nails. ③: Check. Inspection is a thorough examination of the freshly plastered walls. There are two primary factors to evaluate in this case: whether there is significant sand removal on the wall and whether there is a substantial hollow region on the wall. 
For these issues, we must remove and re-plaster the disqualified components. ④: Tile. At this stage, we may tile the plastered walls using standard procedures and materials. For instance, we may use cement mortar to paste tiles, combining tiles and walls directly with cement mortar to complete the treatment of concrete walls and the pasting of tiles. Pay attention to the issue: Before affixing tiles to a concrete wall, the wall must be thoroughly inspected. Plastering cannot be used to level uneven surfaces, which is the main argument here. In other words, if the level difference is higher than 30mm, the concrete must be plastered after chiselling. After plastering, we remember to spray water for timely upkeep. Because if it is not maintained, the strength of the plastering layer may be significantly diminished, making it difficult to adhere the tiles. Before affixing tiles to the completed wall, we must examine the quality of the plastering layer. Only if the plastering layer is of sufficient quality can the tiling be resumed. Wall brushing treatment (scheme 2) The so-called brushing treatment of concrete walls indicates that the flatness of our concrete walls is extremely good; hence, we do not like to plaster the concrete walls; therefore, the current personal preference is to spray hair straight onto the walls. This enhances the paste's contact with the wall, hence enhancing the paste's rigidity. The exact phases of processing are as follows: To create or acquire the necessary brushing materials. Because traditional brushing material is composed of cement mortar and building adhesive. If we lack confidence in the quality of the materials we create, we should purchase the materials for the final product directly. The completed brushing substance is mixed with water in a certain proportion and is then ready for use after being stirred. Spraying or brushing the hair. After selecting our wall spraying or brushing materials, we may spray these products onto the wall using a specialized spraying equipment. 
Or, simply dip a broom in the hairspray substance and tap it on the wall, which can also result in wall ridges. Maintenance. Maintenance is a crucial step because particles created by spraying or plucking hair from a wall are particularly susceptible to water loss. Therefore, when the spray hair has hardened, it is required to spray water on the wall with a sprayer at the appropriate time so that these materials may acquire their natural strength. We can only guarantee the quality of our hair in this manner. ④: Tile. For the wall that is sprayed directly onto the concrete wall, my personal recommendation is to use tile adhesive for pasting, as opposed to cement mortar. Using a thin sticking method, scrape a layer of tile adhesive on the wall, and then scrape a layer on the reverse of the tile, the tile may then be adhered to the concrete wall. Before spraying hair, the flatness of the concrete wall must be examined. Because we do not plaster, the concrete wall's flatness must be within 5 mm; otherwise, it must be chiseled. The particles generated by spray hair should, in my opinion, be bigger and denser so as to maximize the number of contact points with the concrete wall in order to ensure the stability of the tiles. Before applying the tiles, you must inspect the wall spray's quality. Qualified spray hair should generate thick and homogenous particles on the wall that cannot be broken by hand. Otherwise, the strength would be inadequate.
ceramic tile on concrete wall
Wall and floor ceramic tile installation when the they are made of concrete is one of the primary technical jobs on the list that is performed by bricklayers in home improvement projects. Today, I will focus mostly on detailing and standardizing the building process for wall and floor tiles; I hope this information is helpful. Detailed description of the building process for wall and floor tiles
- Selection and handling of bricks
Check the quality of the bricks, select bricks with uniform color, consistent size, clean edges, and a smooth surface, and stack bricks with varying dimensions, varieties, and color numbers.
- basic operations
Clean the bottom layer, chisel or pre-fill the uneven wall, saturate the surface with water to moisten the surface, and then plaster the bottom ash. The bottom ash is typically a 1:3 to 1:4 cement mortar, 7 to 12 mm thick, smooth, and maintained for 12 days. 
When the foundation layer is a concrete wall, 107 glue grout should be placed as a bonding layer, followed by the application of the primer two days later. The base ash layer necessitates a horizontal surface and a vertical façade. Pre-embedded elastic wire The horizontal and vertical control lines for pop-up bricks are determined by the size of the wall and the brick. The non-integrated bricks are typically arranged in the secondary portion or the inner corner of the wall, with the pre-arrangement beginning at the outer corner. Use discarded ceramic tiles to plaster cement-mixed mortar as sign blocks, with 1-1.6cm of space between them, and hang them straight using support boards, rulers, etc. to control the surface flatness.
- Tiling
Soak the bricks in clean water for two to three hours, then place them in the shade to dry or wipe off the water. To improve the binding viscosity of paving mortar, either 1:1.5-2 mud mortar or cement:107 glue:water=100:5:26 pure cement paste can be used. When placing, first wet the bottom ash layer with water, then add mortar to the back of the tile, scrape the four sides into a bevel, set the tile with the line as a guide on the uninitiated bottom ash layer, and pound lightly with the handle of the gray spoon. Check the gaps and flatness of the tile every few pieces to ensure that it is securely adhered and level. The size of the gap must conform to the design specifications. The outside wall tiles should be put from left to right and top to bottom. The average daily construction height of an outside wall is between 1.2 and 1.5 meters.
- Pointing
After the paving has been completed, the cement dirt must be removed within 4 hours, the surface ash should be swept away, the seam should be scratched with a bamboo stick, the surface should be scrubbed with cloth and silk cotton, and the seams should be wiped with a long-haired brush dipped in the same color cement slurry at the joints, and the gaps should be uniform and dense. 
Which floor and wall tiles should be installed initially? In recent years, decorators have routinely "laid the floor tiles first, followed by the wall tiles." However, once this is complete, the newly installed floor tiles must be walked on for at least 24 hours; otherwise, they are susceptible to hollowing, loosening, and unevenness concerns. In addition, you should be concerned that the falling cement and sand will damage the surface of the floor tiles while adhering the wall tiles, and that the cement mortar will clog the floor drain on the floor tiles by pouring into the pipeline. Even if precautions are made when people enter and exit the building site, there is no assurance that no difficulties would arise. First, skilled masons install wall tiles, leaving a row at the bottom, and then they install floor tiles. After the floor tiles have been installed, return and complete the wall tile row. This technique is known as wall pressing. Its benefit is that the gap is tiny, allowing water to flow directly from the wall into the floor drain down the slope. It is not simple to create the floor tiles to become vacant and curved. There are several downsides to installing floor tiles first, followed by decorative wall tiles. We might as well switch the sequence and begin with adhering the wall tiles, followed by the floor tiles. This will effectively prevent hollowing and cracking of floor tiles. Inverting the sequence of decorating may save time, but it will increase the amount of issues. For this reason, we must adhere to the proper decorating procedures! The technological procedure for tile floor construction The initial phase is basic therapy. The construction crew begins by smoothing out the concrete floor. If the surface is not smooth, it is necessary to chisel it. The depth of the chisel should be regulated between 5 and 10 millimeters, and the interval between chisel marks should be around 30 millimeters. Remove any remaining mortar, dust, oil stains, etc., and wash the soil with water. Step 2 is to level the base. To level the foundation layer, use a dry, firm cement mortar with a volume ratio of 1:2.5 and the floor's designed elevation. When the terrain has a slope for drainage, it is important to locate the slope, locate the reference point, and lay the horizontal line at the reference point. Before applying the dried hard cement mortar over the base layer, the plain cement mortar should be distributed uniformly across the base layer's surface to strengthen the link between the base layer and the leveling layer. 
The third stage involves the placement of the elastic line. The construction crew uses the room's center as the starting point and erects overlapping positioning lines. The adjustment distance between the positioning line and the wall should be between 200 and 300 mm. The junction line should be adjusted based on the various types of floor tiles. Note that there should be no half bricks near the door, and that they should be put in a discreet location within the room. Set the standard ground height in accordance with the procedure of laying floor tiles, which is often a T-shape for smaller rooms, a cross for bigger rooms, and two rows of floor tiles. Install the floor tiles. Seam laying technique. Sprinkle a layer of cement on the bottom layer before putting the floor tiles, and then sprinkle the floor tiles with water. When placing floor tiles, the cement slurry should be evenly spread on the back of each tile, and the process should be completed using a rubber hammer. Use a level ruler when paving. Correct errors by carefully removing grout from the surface. Complete paving process. The construction team may lay the wire from the doorway without having to play the wire. When an incomplete floor tile occurs in a room, use a tiny hammer to straighten the seam and maintain the horizontal orientation of the floor tile. After sweeping the seams with 1:1 cement mortar, the construction crew cleans the surface of the floor tiles and covers them with a layer of plastic curing film. Precautions for the adhesion of wall tiles
- Soak in water. Before installing wall tiles, soak them in water for thirty minutes. If the tiles are not soaked in water or are not soaked sufficiently, the wall tiles will absorb the moisture in the cement, resulting in spaces between the tiles and sticking. Unable to tie a knot. In this manner, wall tiles are prone to falling off or causing hollowing.
2.Before installing wall tiles, treat the wall. In order to address the wall's fissures, it is also required to scrape the wall with putty. Because the surface of the putty cannot hold the cement, the tiles will readily slide off. The glue used to install the wall tiles must be correctly applied. In most cases, cement sand and cement labels should be chosen for mixing and application. 
The wall tiles will fracture or fall off if the ratio between the two is not implemented appropriately. The ratio of adhesive for wall tiles is typically 1:3, and the cement label is No. 32.5. When tiling a wall, make careful to leave enough space between the tiles because there will inevitably be some faults and the tiles will be influenced by thermal expansion and contraction. There will be area for tiles to shrink, so they will last longer. After installing the wall tiles, remove any excess adhesive from between the tiles and remove any stains from the surface of the wall tiles using a moist cloth. Notably, you should not wait for the adhesive substance to dry and solidify before washing and wiping, as doing so may harm the surface of the wall tiles and alter their appearance.