One of the most significant benefits of planting tomatoes indoors is that you can even grow them in cold seasons as well. Planting seeds is the first step in growing tomatoes in an apartment. The end of winter and the beginning of spring is when most farmers begin starting their seeds indoors. It doesn't matter what time of year it is outside, you can start seeds whenever you want inside. They should be started about one to two months before being transplanted into the actual grow room for output. This guideline suggests two different transplants: one from the seedling tray to the 4" pots at the two-week mark, and another at the three-week mark, when the seedlings are ready to be moved to their permanent containers. 
Seed starting trays include a shallow inner tray (usually 2 to 3 inches) with slits and drainage holes at the bottom, and available in a variety of sizes. A larger tray underneath it to catch water is recommended. To begin, fill the trays halfway with soil mix, stopping 1/2 inch short of the top of the tray. Allow the soil to soak up no more than 1" of water in the outside tray. Compared to watering from above, this method helps maintain a healthier soil structure with more available oxygen. For best results, wait around 30 minutes for the moisture to absorb before draining the lower tray of any excess water. Next, fill the remaining space in the tray with soil and space single seeds out on the top by 3 inches. Now, lightly sprinkle the dirt on the tray's surface to rehydrate it. Don't let water sit on the earth's surface or use too much pressure when watering, because the soil could be displaced. You should now maintain a humid environment with a temperature of about 70°F75°F in your tray. You can cover the tray with plastic if you're having trouble keeping things moist. After a week, you should observe germination begin, at which point you can move the seeds directly under your grow light for 16 hours a day. Your plants will produce their third set of leaves in two to four weeks, at which point they can be transplanted. Put the soil into the pots, making sure to leave at least a quarter of an inch from the top. Put the planters on a drainage plate and fill it with an inch of water. Let it sit there for 30 to 60 minutes so the water may be absorbed. You should add more soil to the tray if the top layer still appears dry, and then wait. When the surface is damp, you can pour off the surplus water from the tray. Dig a shallow hole, no more than 2 inches deep, in the ground. Once your container is prepped, carefully remove the seedling from the tray by digging around the base of the plant with a spoon. Bury the seedlings up to their bottom pair of leaves, making sure to get all of the roots in the soil. Leave the plants in their new containers under the grow light for three to five weeks, or until they reach a height of 10 to 12 inches. 
Depending on the conditions, gentle watering may be required once every two days. The soil should be kept damp, but not soggy. Ensure that any dishes or trays used to collect water are properly emptied. Your plants can be transferred to their permanent containers once they reach a height of around a foot. For successful transplants, ensure the soil is wet and the root structure is properly formed. Moisten the soil and fill the containers to within an inch of the top. Plant your seedling in a hole you've dug that's just a little bit bigger than the pot. Again, the bottom two leaves can be buried for added stability. One foot away from your plant, bury a strong wooden stake (11" is acceptable, it just needs to be 6 feet long). Even if your plant doesn't look like it needs a stake right now, it probably will soon, and staking it out now will prevent any damage to the roots in the future. If your plant is leggy to begin with, you can give it some extra support by tying it gently to this post with trellising rope. A once-daily watering schedule may be necessary in dry conditions, whereas every other day may be sufficient in wet regions. Maintain a consistent soil moisture level without allowing it to become soggy. Tomatoes often thrive with deep, infrequent waterings. Supporting, Trimming, and Directing Especially if you're growing indeterminately, at some point you'll need to provide some sort of support for your plants. Growers that are doggedly persistent won't need anything fancier than a single center stake and a prefabricated tomato cage. However, indeterminate vine-type tomatoes need vertical space and frequently require staking due to their huge harvests. Simply use u-nails to secure three to four feet of metal fencing to your central stake for a quick and cheap structure. Horizontal bracing may be necessary, depending on the quality of the fencing at your disposal. If you're growing a lot of plants, you can use the fencing to link the central posts together. Wire (string could work for some small fruit species) can be strung horizontally over your central stakes as an option. 
Provisioning with H2O, Fertilizer, and Food We've established that deep, infrequent watering is ideal for your plants. If you let your pot dry out a little, the roots will grow deeper into the soil, making your plants healthier and giving them better access to nutrients. If you live in an area where the tap water has been treated or is contaminated, collecting rainwater to use for indoor gardening in your flat is a must. Some people will suggest utilizing a moisture detector, but you can do it just as easily by feel. To check if the soil is still moist, simply insert your finger 2 to 4 inches deep, away from the plant's base, taking care not to disturb the primary roots. If it’s dry, provide roughly 10-20% of your container’s volume worth of water to your plant (5-gallon container would indicate 0.5-1 gallon of water). Be sure to use a watering can that evenly distributes water at a low pressure. You can lessen the water pressure and flow rate of your hose by purchasing a spray gun or nozzle. If your plant starts blooming, it's time to give it some extra nutrients. The high concentration of vitamins in kelp makes it an excellent choice for boosting production. It is most effective diluted into water and given during your routine watering. Add kelp to the water at the rate of about 1/4 cup per gallon every two to four weeks. Do as the manufacturer of the product specifies. Tomatoes grown in optimal conditions shouldn't have many problems with pests. While pest infestations of varying severity are to be expected in each tomato crop, a full-scale invasion will occur only when environmental conditions are unfavorable for plant growth. If there isn't enough oxygen in the air, if it's too hot or cold, if there aren't enough nutrients, etc. When this occurs, a number of different approaches can be taken to remedy the situation. 
After a long and arduous season of work, it is finally time to reap the rewards of your labors. Green tomatoes are immature fruit that will turn red as they ripen. This slight color shift is the tomato's first indicator that it is about to ripen. Tomatoes can be ripened off the vine, but those that have been on the vine for an extended period of time develop more sugar and flavor. There are a few scenarios in which picking green tomatoes would be desirable. Producing in bulk not only makes harvesting easier on the workers, but also yields a more manageable and portable end product.
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