While environmentalists and animal rights groups have long championed what is called vegan leather as an ethical alternative to leather products that are of animal origin, the rest of the world is just starting to pay attention. In the recent years, major brands such as H&M, American Apparel, and Topshop have thrust the material into the mainstream with a series of eco-leather fashion collections. Adidas even discontinued sustainable vegan leather Stan Smith in year 2018. A recent study predicts that the vegan leather market will be worth $89.6 billion by 2025 (Infinium Global Research). We've made a helpful guide to vegan leather, the advantages, disadvantages, and uses of zoning materials, and their complex place in a sustainable fashion to keep you up to date. 
Although there is no universally accepted definition, any material that mimics the look and feel of leather but is not produced from animal hides can be considered vegan leather. Instead, a variety of synthetic materials and natural fibers are used. Most vegan leather products are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU). Each is petroleum-based plastic, which means PU and PVC leather can take thousands of years to biodegrade. PVC was first made in the 1920s and is the earliest leatherette form. It's made by combining polyvinyl chloride with various chemicals that give the plastic a leather-like look and texture. PVC, inexpensive, readily available, and desirable physical properties, has been a staple of the consumer goods market for nearly a century. However, the material has been criticized because the chemical additives used in production are harmful to humans and the environment. Socio-environmental concerns surrounding PVC have given impetus to other alternatives to vegan leather, and the clear winner is PU. Industry experts see it as a greener alternative and they are making progress in researching greener production methods. PU leather has greater flexibility and breathability, making it ideal for the fashion industry. It has improved much as a material, but there are still better options. Vegan leather can also be made from a wide range of organic materials. Technological advances mean you can now use natural vegan leather made in part from cactus plants in Mexico or agave leaves in Sri Lanka, vegan handbags made from mushrooms, and luxury vegan shoes made from discarded pineapples. Not all animal skins are created equal. Each type has a unique group of characteristics, from full-grain varieties to mass-produced genuine leather. This variety extends to some extent to vegan leather. For example, a vegan leather jacket made from synthetic materials has different physical properties than a leather jacket made from apples. Although the quality certainly varies, there are some typical characteristics of vegan leather. Start with the smell. Part of the appeal of high-quality animal leather is its rich, earthy aroma: the product of the tanning process. In contrast, synthetic leather has a plastic smell (due to chemicals used in the manufacturing process) or no smell. 
Vegan leather
Since vegan leather is generally thinner, it is more prone to general wear and fading; therefore, the expected shelf life of consumer products is 2-5 years. That being said, the development of vegan leather is ongoing, so longevity should be an area to watch in the future. As premium animal leather ages over time, it begins to absorb moisture and oils from the environment, giving it a richer complexion. The patina is known to be admired by leather lovers. For some, it's the ultimate indicator of quality. Far from being porous, synthetic leather is waterproof, meaning it can't take patina (although waterproofing is a welcome bonus). Vegan leather, of course, also has desirable properties. It's easy to use, thin, and stretchy - great for making anything from upholstery to clothing. Water and stain resistance are two other properties beneficial to manufacturers and consumers. Pleating can also be treated with different finishes and dyes, which change the texture and color of the material, ensuring unparalleled versatility. Vegan leather is a versatile material used to make various products. This includes everything from sports gear like baseball and American football gloves to watch straps and book bindings. Given the often thin and stretchy texture of the material, padding is another key element. Tesla recently announced optional vegan leather seats with other luxury auto giants like Ferrari and BMW. But the most famous vegan leather brands exist in the fashion world. More than a third of the shoes produced by French ethical sneaker brand Veja are made exclusively from vegan leather. In the luxury market, renowned female designer Stella McCartney champions vegan leather's look and eco-friendly properties through her pure leather collection. 
Up-and-coming fashionistas can even stock up on designer vegan leather bags from Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana. Overall, the non-leather handbag market grew by $46 billion between 2012 and 2021, driven primarily by the rise of vegan leather (Statista). Consumers are increasingly concerned about their personal consumption's social, ethical, and environmental impacts. In the fashion world, in particular, vegan leather has a solid reputation as a sustainable alternative to the animal leather. However, the reality is more nuanced than that. This is, of course, too broad a topic to cover in this blog post alone, but now we will take a detailed look at the relative eco credentials of vegan leather and genuine leather. As mentioned earlier in this article, most vegan leather is made from two plastic polymers (PU and PVC). In contrast, genuine leather is made from animal hides, considered a beef industry's by-product. Factory farming is responsible for 15% of global greenhouse gas emissions, and there has been some debate about how cowhide demand contributes to this phenomenon. A recent EU directive concluded that given the low monetary value of leather compared to other parts of livestock, such as meat, less than 1% of this value should be attributed to the leather industry. If tanneries don't use "waste" animal skins, they will be deemed worthless and sent to landfill, compounding an already painful problem. If leather by-products are unavailable, we must also consider alternative materials' additional cost and environmental impact. 
Vegan leather products
It goes without saying that if using non-animal products is important to you, genuine leather obviously cannot compete with vegan leather products. The production of vegan and chrome-tanned animal skins requires a lot of energy. This increases the carbon footprint of each material, as fossil fuels are necessary, and the carbon dioxide is then released into the atmosphere. There are also other negative points. Chrome tanning - the main method of leather production, which accounts for 90% of world production - involves the use of highly toxic chemicals with the carcinogenic properties. In underdeveloped countries, dangerous chemical by-products such as sulfides and lime mud are seeping into local rivers, killing marine life and animals and putting workers at risk (The Guardian). The same goes for toxins like phthalates used to make vegan leather. Another method of animal tanning - vegetable tanning - eschews artificial chemicals in favor of organic and natural products but requires more water. And finally, there is the question of longevity. Genuine leather has a much better shelf life than vegan leather, which makes it a more sustainable option, encouraging consumers to shop less often and waste less. But while vegetable-tanned leather naturally biodegrades, chrome-tanned leather products will spend hundreds of years in landfills. The same goes for vegan leather, but microplastics may be the most pressing environmental concern associated with these materials. These small plastic fragments naturally fall off synthetic products as they wear. Microplastics enter the ocean and are ingested by aquatic organisms, destroying valuable ecosystems. 
Microplastic exposure can also affect humans: injure organs, cause inflammation, and release chemicals. One of the advantages of vegan leather is that it is very easy to clean. Unlike animal leather, no pores absorb excess stains and moisture. Instead, most types of vegan leather are stain and water-resistant. If your vegan leather goods look worn and dirty, wipe them down first with a soft, non-abrasive cloth to remove the surface dust and dirt. Next, lightly dampen a cool cloth in lukewarm water and apply it to the leather, cleaning in small circular motions. If the product has a textured surface, you can use a toothbrush to clean hard-to-reach areas. Then dry the product with a microfiber cloth. You can then apply a protective treatment to protect the dirt temporarily. Are they good? This is a complex question, and the answer will ultimately depend on a range of (often conflicting) ethical and environmental factors. For example, you might consider buying a quality vegan leather backpack to show your support for the Cruelty-Free movement. But if the item is made from synthetic plastic, there is also the problem of microplastics and a ripple effect on the oceans and human life. Therefore, it is best to research leather consumer products. Understanding the production process will help you make an informed decision. This research extends to the genuine leather, and we encourage you to consider the brand's tannery, preferred tanning method (such as natural vegetable tanning versus synthetic chemical chrome tanning), and leather quality before buying.