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wall ceramic tile installer | buy at a cheap price

ceramic tile is one of the most used coverings for the wall. Installation of ceramic tile for walls is considered as one of the DYI projects. Tile is the material of choice for floor installations due to its durability and resistance to moisture and staining, the same qualities that make it a natural choice for walls, especially in kitchens and bathrooms. of the bath. It's not particularly hard to do, but it's easy to do wrong. It's a bit more tricky than installing floor tiles because you're gluing relatively heavy material to a vertical surface, but with careful planning and patience, any do-it-yourselfer can easily install ceramic wall tiles with good results. The cost of wall tiles can vary greatly, depending on the tiles you choose. Common bulk tiles for home centers can cost as little as $1 per square foot, but if you're looking for fancy designer tiles, it's not uncommon to cost $15 per square foot or more. You actually have more options for wall tiles than for floors, as thicker floor tiles can also be used for walls. However, the reverse is not true: you cannot use thin wall tiles on the floor. Floor tiles must be particularly thick and strong to withstand foot traffic. When buying tile, measure the square footage and be sure to add an extra 10% for waste and breakage, and leftover tile for future repairs. Tile styles and colors change frequently, and unless you have extras on hand, you may find it hard to match your tiles when you need repairs. Our demo projects use materials and tools that are now standard practice for almost any ceramic, porcelain, or natural stone tiling job, whether floor or wall. Our wall project assumes you have installed the cement board cladding first, which is the best surface to install tile with a thin adhesive. While it was once common to apply ceramic wall tile over regular drywall or "blue board" impermeable drywall, almost all professional installers now use cement board as the backing for floor and wall tiles. When installing wall tiles for a shower or tub wall, the installation is the same as for a standard wall, but the base requires a fully waterproof backing. There are many ways to do this, including installing a layer of plastic sheeting, brushing a waterproofing membrane over the base of the cement board, or using a special backing sheet cementitious with an integrated waterproofing membrane, such as DenseShield. The method used, waterproofing is essential because moisture seeps into the tiles and can cause serious structural damage. Our demonstration project uses a popular type of ceramic wall tile, called subway tile, laid in a continuous glued pattern where the vertical joints are staggered row by row. Subway tiles, named for their use in New York City subway stations and other metropolitan subways in the early 20th century, are a very popular style for bathrooms and kitchens. Running bond patterns can be used for square tiles and other rectangular shapes; or for simpler layouts, tiles can use straight vertical joints, called a straight grid pattern. The layout is essential to an aesthetic wall tiling project. Professionals are good at laying tiles so that the grout lines are perfectly horizontal and vertical so that the cut sections of the tiles are symmetrical. A good layout also avoids narrow rows of cut tiles at the top, bottom, and sides of the wall. There are many ways to establish a layout, but the best is to use the same method as for floors, which is to carefully draw vertical layout lines as installation guides. Larger jobs are much easier if you rent or buy the right tools for your tiling project, including a wet saw equipped with a diamond cutting blade. Entry-level saws can be had for around $100 and are a good investment if you have a big job or do a lot of tiling. Alternatively, you can rent tools from a large home improvement store or tool rental store. However, your tiling job can still be done with a manual speed cutter, which is ideal for small tiling jobs. However, speed cutters are not suitable for thick porcelain tiles or natural stone.
  1. Gather materials and tools
Estimate your tile needs based on the square footage of the wall. It is best to fill the estimate by at least 10% to account for waste and breakage. Home centers and specialty tile stores carry certain styles of tile, but special styles usually require special orders. If necessary, you can also purchase the desired decorative tiles, such as bottom tiles, edge trim, or round head top trim. Most wall tiles are best installed using a mortar-based adhesive called thin set, which is made from water-retaining agents such as cement, fine sand, and cellulose. Thin-set usually contains a latex additive to give it some flexibility to prevent cracking in tile work. Apply a thin layer of glue using a notched trowel. The proper size of the v-notch in the trowel depends on the size and thickness of the tile and the recommendations of the tile manufacturer. In our sample subway tile project, a trowel with 3/16 x 5/32 inch notches is recommended. This size fits most tiles 6 x 6 inches or smaller.
  1. Protect the surface
Tiles can get a little messy, so it's wise to protect floors, counters, and fixtures from tile adhesive and grout spill. Purchase heavy rosin construction paper, which you can find at major craft or paint supply stores. Cover counters and floor surfaces with paper and tape them in place. Cut slits in the paper where the sink faucet and other accessories are located. Cover exposed surfaces of light fixtures with strips of paint tape.
  1. Plan the Layout
The purpose of layout planning is to ensure that there are no thin cut tiles on the sides or top and bottom. Take the time to get the layout right; you will use the layout lines to install the tiles starting in the center and working outward in the quadrants. Begin by choosing the foremost visible wall within the room. (In bathrooms, this is usually the center of the vanity wall above the sink). Use a tape measure to determine the horizontal and vertical center points on the wall. Start from this central point. Use a spirit level to extend vertical and horizontal layout lines from side to side and ceiling to floor. The layout lines are then marked with tile samples to show the approximate placement of each tile along the line, including the thickness of the grout line. If you start to find that there are too many areas to crop, you can adjust the starting point left or right, up or down to create the most effective layout.
  1. Apply Thin-Set Adhesive
Once you are happy with the arrangement of the vertical and horizontal lines, begin applying the adhesive, starting at the center point and working one quadrant at a time. Use the flat side of the trowel to apply the adhesive to the quadrant of the wall, covering only the part of the wall that you can comfortably work on in 20-30 minutes. Immediately smooth the finish coat with a trowel, using the notched side of the trowel to create a pattern of ridges and valleys in the wet adhesive. Holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle, "paint" the adhesive in one direction. The wall sections should be coated with thin adhesive, but you should be able to see the wall surface between the adhesive ridges left by the notching trowel.
  1. Lay the First Row of Tile
Place the first tile (or tile, if using mosaic tiles) on the wall where the center point of the layout is located. Adjust it carefully with the horizontal and vertical layout lines. Firmly press the tile into the adhesive; as you press down, the adhesive flattens, filling in the spaces between the ridges created by the trowel. Once the first tile or panel is in place, complete the first row along the horizontal layout line, using plastic spacers to ensure even spacing between tiles. Only install full-width tiles - leave cutting partial tiles for last. When the first row is complete, use the carpenter's level to check its level, then start the second row of tiles, taking care to stagger the vertical grout joints by exactly half the width of the tiles. Continue installing subsequent rows, again using plastic spacers to maintain an even seam between tiles. For the splice mode we use, it is essential that you get the correct offsets so that the splice has the correct spacing from row to row.
  1. Complete the Field Tile Installation
After completing each small piece of wall, lightly tap the tile surface with a small piece of wood and a rubber mallet. This action "locks" the tile into the adhesive and flattens the surface. Systematically working in sections, repeat the process until you cover the entire wall. Save tiles that need to be trimmed or cut until the project is complete. When you get to the last full tile, scrape the excess adhesive from exposed wall areas. This will prevent the adhesive from hardening when you cut the last tile and are ready to complete the installation. When the adhesive hardens, check the grout lines and make sure there is no excess adhesive. If necessary, use a pointed stick or small screwdriver to scrape off the excess. When you get to the finishing stage, the grout lines should be clear and open for the grout to adhere. Use a damp sponge or cloth to wipe away any adhesive on the tile surface. Adhesives are easy to clean when wet, but difficult to clean when dry.
  1. Fill the Side Gaps
After full size tiles are installed, cut and install partial tiles along the edge of the wall. Some tiles can be cut with a manual speed cutter or wet saw. When using a fast tile cutter, place the tile in the tile cutter, then score the surface by vigorously moving the tungsten carbide wheel up and down the tile surface. Next, place the pressure bar pad on the tile and apply firm pressure to the lever to push the tile through its score line. If you have a lot of tiles to cut, a wet tile saw is a better choice for cutting some tiles. It is also important for thicker floor tiles, porcelain, or natural stone tiles, which are difficult to cut with a fast cutter.
  1. Fill Remaining Gaps
If tiles need to be cut to fit outlets, light switches, plumbing, and other obstructions, use a tile cutter or tile cutter to cut them to fit the space. If there is any fill around the outlet, make sure the tile does not cover the electrical box opening. Always wear safety glasses before trimming or cutting tiles. When installing small tiles, it is easier to butter the back of the tile with glue. Then line up the adhesive with the notched side of the tile and press the cut tile into the wall, using plastic spacers to maintain an even grout line.
  1. Install Trim Pieces
In case your layout incorporates border tiles or other trim pieces, install them last. Here we are using a 1 x 6 inch blanket. Laying is similar to laying floor tiles: butter the back of the tiles and presses them against the wall.
  1. Inspect Grout Joints
Final inspection of all grout lines. Remove excess adhesive between grout lines. Allow the tile adhesive to dry for 24 to 72 hours before grouting the tile.
  1. Grout the Tile
Following the tile manufacturer's instructions, apply the grout to the joints. Joints wider than 1/8 inch generally require sanding mortar, while narrower joints use no-sanding mortar. Be sure to remove excess grout from the tile and wipe off the dry fog once the grout has dried. Once the grout is fully cured and hardened (this may take anywhere from a few hours to a few days, depending on the grout), use a sealer if recommended by the grout manufacturer.

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