The majority of suppliers and producers choose Oxford shoes to work on without even thinking about it. It is one of fashion's few no-brainers: they are the dependable lace-ups made of soft leather you reach for when you need to look put-together. Nothing else compares. The Oxford is the definition of a smart men`s shoe, taking us from school to business and stopping at every conceivable formal occasion along the way. We have long taken it for granted, but now is the time to join the gratitude club. The style was originally a more comfortable alternative to heeled boots, which were common issues for men at the time, and was named after a shoe that became popular at The University of Oxford in the 1800s. There is also some Celtic blood in the mix: certain Oxfords are still referred to as Balmorals since they may be traced back to Scottish and Irish footwear. Today, Oxford shoes come in a variety of styles, but they are all elegant, formal, and respectable - the shoe of choice for everyone from well-dressed young workers to gentleman spies. "Every welted shoemaker in the world has a version of this design, and while they all have the same qualities, they are all separated by how the shoemaker executes the creation of the shoe," Tony Gaziano, creative director of British shoemaker Gaziano & Girling, explains. WHAT EXACTLY IS AN OXFORD SHOE? An Oxford is defined by three characteristics. They sit under your ankle, have a low heel, and the lacing system is sewed shut at the bottom (closest to your toes). That is the primary distinction between an Oxford and a Derby shoe, which is open at both the top and bottom of the lacing part. This construction approach makes an Oxford more streamlined on the foot, giving it a more formal appearance. OXFORD shoe TYPES: Another distinction between menswear newbies and menswear geeks is the ability to differentiate between an Oxford and a brogue. Many people believe the two shoes are radically different; however, this is not the case. Brogues (or broguing) are shoe perforations that were initially designed to allow water to drain from them. That means you can have Oxfords that are brogues and Oxfords that are not. Derbies are the same way; it is the lacing that distinguishes them. There are many other sorts of shoes to pick from if you do not want to wear brogues. SHOES WITH A PLAIN TOE: The plain-toe Oxford shoe is unquestionably the cleanest and most attractive variation of the Oxford shoe, and thus the most formal. When reproduced in patent leather, it's the go-to pick for black tie events, with a lack of detail that gives it a streamlined profile that extends the appearance of trousers. OXFORD CAP-TOE SHOES: The cap-toe is the most common manifestation of the Oxford shoe, and the plain toe is for eveningwear. The style is named after the production procedure, which involves stitching an additional strip of leather over the toe. OXFORD WINGTIP SHOES: The wingtip Oxford is a far less formal choice, with a distinctive M-shaped toecap and edges that run along the sides of the shoe. Styles in nubuck suede can be worn as part of a smart-casual ensemble as well as for weddings and office wear. SHOES BALMORAL OXFORD: The Balmoral design, like the wingtip, has an extended, M-shaped toe cap. However, because it lacks broguing, it is more suited to a variety of smart occasions, such as job interviews and dressy evening meals. OXFORD SADDLE SHOES: Saddle Oxfords, a historically American style that is now rare in practically every corner of the world, have an additional strip of leather in a contrasting or complementary color that runs around the center and down the side of the shoe to the sole. OXFORD SHOE LACE INSTRUCTIONS: Traditional Oxford shoes have five eyelets, although they can have more or less. That is less important than how you tie them. Because this is the most formal sort of footwear you may wear, the laces should be horizontal, parallel, and the same color as the shoe, or at least tonal. However, color pop laces on Derbies are very appropriate, the same on Oxfords would make Sir Hardy Amies turn in his grave. To properly lace a pair of Oxfords, feed both ends of the lace through the bottom eyelets from above and pull the lace horizontally. If your shoe has five eyelets, draw the lace so that the end on the outside is a few centimeters longer than the end on the inside. If you have four or six eyelets, make sure both ends are the same length. Feed the outside lace through the second eyelet on the same side (from the bottom), then loop it over the top to the second eyelet on the opposite side (through the top). Now, on the inside of the shoe, feed the lace through the third eyelet (from the bottom) on the same side and loop it to the third eyelet on the opposite side (again, through the top). Continue in this manner until you reach the top. You'll need to cross one side of the lace over on any shoe with an uneven number of eyelets, which is why it should be longer on the outside of the shoe. Each side should be even if you have an even number of eyelets. To tighten the laces and fasten your shoes, pull on both of their ends. Expect a little V-shape when you first purchase them, but as you break them in, the laces should tighten tightly, bringing the uppers of the shoe's four quarters together. WHEN SHOULD YOU WEAR OXFORD SHOES? These are smart shoes - proper shoes - especially in polished leather, so tailoring and formal pants go well with them. "The Oxford is unquestionably a suit shoe, appropriate for all formal events, black suits, navy suits, grey suits, always with a tie and white shirt." "[The Oxford] is never a shoe to wear with jeans or casually." Which Oxford style you choose will be determined by the occasion. Stick to basic or whole cut designs for black tie occasions (or court appearances) - the lack of embellishment keeps things elegant. When it comes to your professional clothing, you have more options. You cannot go wrong with cap-toe Oxfords, but wingtips and versions with brogue detailing make them a little less formal without breaking any rules. The standard colors of black, brown, and tan are classic go-to, but there are many more colored Oxfords available today. Navy and dark green, for example, can offer a trendy twist to a dressed-up outfit. However, anything flashier than that is off-limits. Most importantly, remember the importance of a decent pair of dress socks while shopping for new Oxford shoes - they can make or break an outfit, even if you have the best shoes. It is critical to try on the shoes before determining which style is best for you. The proportions of the lines will vary depending on your foot size. We also propose looking at the last's or profile's form, as well as the tidiness of the sole and heel.
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