You need to learn how to pursue the Roma tomato growing process even with problems such as black bottoms. Fresh vegetables grown from one's own garden have no equal in terms of flavor. The first tomato to ripen on the vine is often regarded as the best of the crop by many farmers. Many people will also tell you that homegrown tomatoes are delicious and worth the extra care they need to cultivate. Tomatoes are cultivated from vines, and the tomato plant itself is a vigorous climber. These plants are susceptible to a wide variety of diseases, fungi, and insect pests. Blossom end rot is a common issue that has a more dire reputation than it deserves. Tomatoes that are about halfway through their growth cycle may still look OK on the outside, but the bottoms of the fruits will begin to develop hard brown blotches. When the fruit is fully mature and crimson, these gradually expand, becoming leathery and dark in color. This ailment is typically caused by blossom end rot (BER), also known as tomato blossom end rot or tomato end rot, which can affect other nightshade family members as well, including peppers and eggplants. 
Blossom end rot is neither a bacterial rot nor a disease, despite the misleading term. It's caused by a lack of calcium in the plant's soil during fruit development, and it usually goes away as more fruit starts setting. 1 Calcium is an essential element for the development of the fruit's skin. If the plant is lacking the calcium it needs during a critical growth period, it will develop abnormally. Recognizing Blossom End Rot A faint brown discoloration at the fruit's base is the first sign. After these spots have grown and darkened to cover as much as half of the tomato, the fruit has begun to rot and is susceptible to secondary bacteria and fungus. The bottoms of your tomatoes may become a dark black or brown, and you may even notice some dark, sunken craters appearing, giving the impression that they are decaying on the plant. How Does Blossom End Rot Occur? Blossom end rot is typically brought on by a calcium deficit, while calcium-deficient soil is an uncommon culprit. 
Instead, it happens when the plant is unable to absorb and transfer calcium because of external factors. While it may be suggested that calcium be added to the soil as an amendment, in most situations the soil already contains sufficient calcium. There are exactly two causes of blossom end rot: The rapid expansion of the plant prevents it from accumulating enough calcium to support the maturation of the fruit. When a plant is under stress, it can't use the calcium it absorbs from the soil properly. Inadequate watering is the most prevalent source of these two problems, especially in container gardening. Too little calcium in the soil prevents the plant from producing nutritious fruit. But the same thing can happen if the plant is watered too much. Tomatoes are prone to this problem when their growers are overzealous with the watering can. Overfertilization during early fruiting can potentially cause blossom end rot. Again, this is frequently the consequence of a well-meaning but overzealous gardener. 
Causes and Cures for Blossom End Rot Even if you notice a few tomatoes with blossom end rot while producing indeterminate tomatoes (those that set fruit throughout the season), it is unlikely that the entire crop will be ruined. You probably won't need to do anything special to your late-season tomatoes. Tomatoes with blossom end rot should be picked off the vines so that the plant can focus its resources on generating healthy new tomatoes. Remove any diseased tomatoes from your garden. Tomatoes are going black on the bottoms due to blossom end rot, but the fruit is still edible. A tomato may be consumed if the damaged area is removed before consumption. Watering measures that encourage healthy plant growth are your best bet when dealing with blossom end rot. Make sure the soil around your tomato plants is moist, but not drenched. It's best to water your plants from the ground up rather than drenching them from above, as the latter practice can encourage soil-borne illness that stunts the plant's growth and production. 
Methods for Avoiding Blossom End Rot Since garden circumstances are so changeable, preventing blossom end rot totally is unlikely, however it may be mitigated by changing feeding and watering rates to levels that favor consistent, moderate growth of the plant. Luckily, there are a number of measures you can take to ensure your plants never get blossom end rot. Don't just plant tomatoes everywhere; find the perfect soil. Roots have an easier time absorbing the necessary calcium in well-drained, organically-amended soil, such compost or peat moss, when the fruit is still in its early stages of development. Measure the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Vegetables that are susceptible to blossom end rot require a pH level of at least 6.5, which frees up more calcium in the soil, but thrive well in soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8. Take action to increase soil pH if testing reveals it to be too low (too acidic). Rapid-acting agricultural lime can be worked into the top 12 inches of soil to achieve this goal. Time your plantings correctly. Overeager gardeners frequently plant tomatoes when the ground is still too cold for the roots to develop properly. Again, the plant is deprived of calcium during a time when it needs it most. When preparing seedlings for soil conditions, it is best to do so gradually by exposing them to the outside for longer and longer periods of time. 
Avoid using excessive amounts of fertilizer, especially nitrogen-rich fertilizer. This causes the leaves to grow faster at the expense of the fruits. Try to avoid over-fertilizing. Tomatoes have high nutrient requirements, and unless it is specially fertilized, potting soil cannot provide those needs. Plant tomatoes in a bed of mulch. This can aid in soil moisture retention, leading to a more consistent pace of growth and less risk of blossom end rot. Make use of a spray-on solution rich in calcium. Tomatoes may get all the calcium they require from a commercial calcium spray product if it is given straight to the plants twice or three times a week right after the flowers begin to open. Despite its potential, this treatment has its limitations. Epsom salts should be added when you first start planting. Remove the seed leaves and the plant's lowest leaves and dig a hole that's at least a few feet deep. Tomatoes should be planted so that their stems are at least a third of the way down into the ground. Add 1-2 tablespoons of epsom salts to the planting hole before you fill it with dirt. To ensure steady development, the plant has to set up a solid root system as soon as possible.
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