The optimal time for pruning an Apple tree known as the northern spy variety is as winter is winding down. This often occurs just before the first signs of bud growth. Northern Spy Apples can be pruned to keep their beautiful form and to increase fruit production for the future year. Proper pruning boosts yield, sweetness, color, and skin quality. Disease and pest management are both enhanced by proper pruning to allow for maximum light penetration and ease of access for thinning and picking. Pruning properly does take a significant amount of time. It may take one to three hours of careful labor on a large apple or a large pear tree. If you care about the tree's aesthetics and the quality and quantity of its fruit, you should make the effort. 
WHY Spurs are a frequent way for the flowers to be carried. The fruit bud is easily distinguished from the wood bud by its bigger size, pubescence, elongated shape (rather than slender), and wider diameter than the spur on which it develops. Once established, the fruit bud does not add to the length of the spur, but a vegetative bud may sprout below it and be held in check or go dormant while the fruit develops and consumes all the nutrients supplied to the spur. Once the fruit has matured and been harvested, the vegetative shoot has the opportunity to expand its growth over the following season, at which point it will develop a fruit bud for the following year. That's why different apple types have different fruiting seasons because of this phenomenon. When There are several cultivars that reliably produce fruit year after year and can be coaxed into doing so with some little pruning and thinning in June. Nutrient availability and seasonal pruning both play a role in fruit bud development. We discover that summer pruning encourages fruit-bud production, but pruning done at any other time of year, especially in excess, promotes vegetative or wood formation. Thin wood should be removed in the spring before new growth begins, or ideally in June or July when the fruit is already present; pruning at this later date also thins out extra fruit. HOW Apple trees require special attention because of their tiny crotch, widely spaced lateral branches, and pyramidal shape with a central axis. It's also important to thin out the tree so that the inside can get some sunshine. Contrarily, you shouldn't prune the tree so that its inner branches are removed, and its limbs are peeled nearly to the end, creating the impression of a "Mule-tail." 
Varieties and environmental factors affect how tall a tree can grow, but in general, it shouldn't be so tall that you require a ladder taller than 20 or 22 feet to reach the fruit. Most orchards perform their pruning in the winter to thin out the thick summer growth while still maintaining the tree's overall shape and leaving the branches as widely separated as feasible. The practice of "light topping," in which 30 percent of the season's summer growth is pruned away, is supposed to stimulate further fruit bud development. When you prune heavily, you remove up to 60 percent of the season's new growth, which stimulates vegetative or wood development. Using the latter strategy is ideal for young trees that are developing normally and rapidly. Since the period from May to July is always defined by the expression "June drop," at this time the amount of fruit on a branch naturally adjusts to the amount that the limb can really carry on to maturity, additional thinning of the fruit crop in June is wise. You can expect to lose a few unripe fruits. Recent pruning practices have advocated for the elimination of "thin wood." These are the slender limbs that droop when they're heavy with fruit. They bear inferior, smaller fruit. These limbs are typically overcrowded, poorly positioned, and deemed useless because of their lack of sunlight. Several trees are inherently twiggy than others, and some apple types, like the Jonathan, as well as many cherry, plum, peach, and apricot varieties, require further thinning of their bearing wood to let in sunlight and mature the fruit. 
Many species of trees produce fruit either on the branches themselves or on small, stubby spurs that grow between the branches. Most types of apples develop fruit both on the spurs and the limbs, while pears, plums, and cherries mostly produce fruit on spurs and then on one-year-old limb growth. It is unnecessary to prune spur-type fruit trees as often as other varieties because they produce fewer limbs. Breeding trees that produce mostly on spurs has resulted in a plethora of fruit tree kinds that require far less maintenance from the orchardist. When a branch produces an abundance of fruit spurs, selective pruning can promote the growth of larger and better fruits on the remaining spurs. After some practice, you'll be able to determine how many spurs are ideal for a given tree. After a spur has been produced for a few years, it should be removed to provide room for a new one to develop. Older spurs will look older, so keep that in mind. Some nurseries offer unusual varieties of apple trees, such as those that bear three or five different kinds of fruit, and others have trees that bear multiple different kinds of fruit, such as plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines, and apricots. In addition, some people enjoy grafting multiple fruit varieties onto a single tree, either for its novelty of it or because they are limited in space. It's challenging to prune these fruit trees that bear several varieties. However, with care and discretion, you can prune one if you already have one or if you decide to buy or graft your own. You'll need to make a note of the locations of the various fruit types every year, or you risk chopping off the only branch that produces that type of fruit. 
If you can't remember the kinds of flowers you bought, you can use colored ribbons to keep track. Due to the presence of three or more sturdy branches, multi-fruit trees are best suited for open-center cultivation. Each branch type develops at its own rate and in its own way, therefore the tree will need corrective pruning to achieve a healthy, balanced structure. It's a lot of work, but if you keep at it, you won't end up with any unsightly crotches, water sprouts, or uneven height.
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