Pregnancy pillow pattern and price

In this article, I try to show you an easy pattern, also a practical instruction to make a simple pregnancy pillow. This tutorial shows you how I turned a regular king-size pillow into a pregnancy pillow that supports my stomach and back and prevents me from rolling onto my back in the middle of the night. Any standard king pillowcase should still fit here. This pillow is more for supporting the stomach and preventing overturning than for back pain. If you have back pain, this pillow may or may not help. If your back pain is related to the weight of the stomach that is pulled to the side at night, this pillow may provide some relief. If it's related to hip pain, it probably won't help. However, you can also sleep with a regular pillow (or a special pillow) between your knees, which can provide great back pain relief. I like the knee brace and pillow combo because I can still roll back and forth easily at night, but I can't lie on my back while sleeping. Most large postpartum pillows on the market that support the knees and belly/back are a) too expensive and b) too bulky. Those who sleep on their stomachs can also use this pillow to sleep more on their stomachs. I'm at the point where it's not comfortable to sleep on my stomach in general, but I can lie on my stomach with just enough support on my sides to not put pressure on my stomach. You will need: ~ 1 king pillow (preferably "firm") ~ Nail clippers (or small, sharp scissors) ~ pencil (or pencil/fabric marker) ~ Something to use as a ruler ~ Simple pins ~ Cotton thread ~ needle or sewing machine For this project, I used a brand new (but cheaper) "hard" block. If you have an old pillow lying around, it will probably work just fine, but if it's too old and lumpy, the end product may not be very comfortable! The 1^st step: Measure! Measure the distance you want the pillow to be. I did this by lying on the bed with my usual pillow in front of me and behind me. Once I had them in a comfortable position, I carefully stood up and measured the distance between them. I recommend that you measure or at least take this step and estimate the distance. I ended up with a medium size 7 inches which was much smaller than I thought! The 2^nd step: Rip the seam and empty the pillow Use a seam ripper to open the seams on one of the long sides of the pillow. Start in the center, roughly where the flat part of the finished product will be, and make a hole large enough to fit your hands through. Reach out and divide the material into two parts and move it to roughly where it will be on the finished pillow. Finally, open the entire seam along the long side and remove the two pieces of stuffing. *You can probably open the whole seam, take the stuffing in one piece and cut it in half. I did as described above because:

1. A) I hope to be able to open the middle of the seam, pin, and sew with stuffing. I soon learned that this was not going to work!
2. b) Tightening the lining to more or less the right size while the rest of the seam is still in place to keep the lining in place can make stuffing a little easier later.

My goal was to keep as much of the filler intact as possible so there would be no lumps and lumpiness at the end. And if your pillow is trimmed like mine and you want to put it back on, now is a great time to cut it to one side of your pillowcase and sew it in place. I didn't think about it later, and this step will save you the hassle of pinning and stitching three layers at a time when you're under fill pressure. I sincerely recommend that you take the scissors from this side and carefully sew the corners of the pillows where the cuts are (no one will see, and it's best to put the whole thing in a big pillowcase. This!) The 3^rd step: Tag and pin Measure the "skin" of your pillow and mark its center. In my case, the pillow was 35, so my 7-flat fell between 14″ and 21. Use a pencil and ruler to mark a line on either side of the flat part of the pillow. Pin the two halves of your "skin" together along the line. The 4^th step: Follow the Lines Sew along two lines. I decided to use a triple stitch for stabilizer - probably too much, but since I was sewing, why not? If you haven't replaced the trim yet (and plan to), leave space at the end of the seam rather than stitching through the entire seam. If you take out the scissors or have already sewn the hem to one side, you can sew all the way down, remembering to fold the edge of the "skin" of the pillow correctly (unfinished folded edges that are in the middle). *If you want to wash the "skin" of the pillow to remove pencil marks, now is the time to do so (assuming you removed it or sewed it back together on one side) The 5^th step: Stuff the Pillow Complete the pillow. If you're picky (like me!), you may want to turn the filling upside down (so that the side you removed is facing the outer edge of the pillow). It is easiest to grasp one end of the filling with one hand and squeeze it as tightly as possible. Once started, it was very easy to push the rest of the material into place without twisting. The 6^th step: Pin It and Sew It Pin the long side, making sure the raw edges of the pillowcase are tucked in when pinning. If you've never trimmed a side before, I suggest you trim the hem on one side first, then trim the other side for the hem and the first side (make sure all three layers have new pin layers). The tension in the filling makes it difficult to hold all three layers at once. Sew the seam again. It may be easier to sew by hand, although I used to use my machine. If you use a machine and are brave enough, I recommend sewing the pins on and then removing them. The tension created by the batting will cause the layers to misalign when the pins are removed, otherwise (no problem if you don't try to sew the edge at the same time!)