The following tutorial illustrates the normal assembly procedure for those of you who decide to acquire your oak ledged wooden doors in kit form. This door was constructed by a competent joiner, who also shared some of his advice and guidance in the process. He would typically finish an oak ledged door kit in between 25 and 30 minutes; you may want to give yourself a bit more time! On your workstation, place the softwood battens with the front of the oak door boards facing up. A ledged door typically has a narrow board in the middle, a large board on each side, and a thin board along each door edge. Consider the boards and choose which end to place at the top of the door; as this is the section of the door that is most visible, you always want the best end there! By inserting the tongues into the grooves on each board, assemble the door boards. The tongues and grooves shouldn't be glued. These oak doors have been dried, so the oak will not shrink, but if you expose the door to a damp environment (like a freshly plastered room), the door will expand somewhat. Ideally, you should leave an even space of approximately 1mm between the boards to accommodate expansion. Even up the tops of the door boards with a light nylon hammer or mallet; the tongues should move up and down the grooves fairly smoothly. The door boards may sometimes be somewhat bent; in this case, it is advisable to crimp them after leveling the tops and before installing the ledges. Select the best oak ledge for the top of the door and the next best for the ledge below it, and so on, as you arrange the ledges on the boards. On each ledge, make sure the pre-drilled holes are all in the same sequence. Place the top ledge's top edge 4 inches from the top of the door. Place the bottom ledge's bottom edge 7" away from the bottom of the door. The two center ledges must be parallel and spaced equally. Fix a screw through a pre-drilled hole at each end of the top ledge, starting with the top ledge, to immediately support the top of the door. If you want a flawless finish after the holes have been sealed, take care not to harm the borders of the plug hole with the screw or drill. You must now have a somewhat stable door after doing the same with the lower ledge. There should be 48 screws total that go through the remaining pre-drilled holes in the ledges. Put a little amount of PVA glue in each plug hole. Align the grain of an oak plug with the grain of the ledge. The oak plug should be hammered into the plug hole with around 5mm of the plug sticking out above the ledge surface. Removing the majority of the plug surplus requires the use of a sharp 1" wood chisel with a chiseled edge. Make sure the top of the slope is facing away from the direction of chiseling if the oak plug has a slope cut end; otherwise, you will need to work your way up the plug from the low end to the high end in order to remove the extra wood. This makes sure that the plug separates above the hole's surface. Utilizing the chisel's flat, remove the remaining portion of the plug. Use a metal scraper or 120 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to remove any little splinters or rough spots so that the ledges have a wonderful clean surface. The lovely oak ledged door should now be prepared for staining, oiling, or waxing. Traditional hardwoods include oak. Brown grain lines that zigzag, swirl, and dip through an intricate pattern of amber or light pink hues define it. Similar to how no two oak patterns are identical, each one is unique. The grain lines might vary in subtlety. Oak should be stained to reveal patterns in order to fully appreciate its intricate beauty. If you want an oak door to appear its best, apply stain before installing it anyplace in your house. Three folds are made in a piece of 180-grit sandpaper. Utilize it to haphazardly sand the door's surface in order to get rid of any loose fibers, smooth out any rough edges, and round any sharp corners. Sand the door once again, simply going with the grain. Effort both sides. Open a can of stain and dip a staining sponge into it. Use the soaked sponge to liberally clean the surface and the four borders. Continue until the door is thoroughly stained, dipping the sponge in stain if it becomes dry. With a dry cotton towel, quickly clean the door. After waiting 30 minutes, flip the door over. Use the sponge that has been stained to clean this side of the door. The edges don't need to be cleaned. With the cotton cloth, remove the stain as soon as possible. Before applying lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane, let the stain an hour to cure.
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