Without a spray can, painting oak wood doors and giving them decent finishes by hand, especially six-paneled doors are challenging and time-consuming. You may get the smoothest finish on doors with a sprayer that has the appropriate paint and spray tip size, without having to put in endless hours of tedious effort brushing and rolling each coat of paint. Using a sprayer makes sense if you have to paint many oak doors at once, but not so much if you have to paint just one. Setting up a sprayer and a workstation for spray painting oak doors takes time at first. 
An airless sprayer is well for painting several interior oak doors. You may get one for a reasonable price from a home improvement store or even rent them from a paint shop. However, investing in a skilled sprayer is a wise choice if you want a dependable sprayer for frequent usage. I use a Graco 495 Ultra Max airless sprayer for the majority of my spraying, including interior doors and cabinets. I've used this contractor-grade sprayer for a number of years without any problems. For me, I wouldn't purchase any other brand. A bigger airless sprayer is better for painting oak doors since it can suck paint straight from a paint can or bucket. As a result, you won't need to refill your paint as often as you would with a cup sprayer. If you simply need to paint two or three doors, a hand-held airless sprayer is a wonderful option. These little sprayers are not ideal for spray painting several oak doors since they have a large amount of overspray but a small amount of paint capacity. You would need to stop often to replenish your paint and thin it to the proper viscosity. When utilizing an airless sprayer, you often don't need to thin the paint. 
Although a sprayer does a better job of producing a fine finish with less overspray, an airless can also create outstanding results if it has the right size fine finish tip. Prior to spraying, create a workstation that is sufficiently large to accommodate the doors. If a garage is available, I spray garage oak doors; otherwise, I ask the client to clear out a room in the home. The flooring must be covered with two layers of painter's plastic or heavy-duty drop cloths. If you're spraying inside the home, you'll need to cover the room entry, nearby walls, and windows with plastic. I strongly advise wearing a mask. I promise you that this tool saves a ton of time. I've done it both ways, but removing the doors and spraying them all in one room is certainly preferable. The oak doors may be left hanging and painted that way, but you'll have to cover all the hinges and adjacent walls with tape and plastic, which normally takes more time than pulling the doors off to paint. The overspray is kept contained in one room rather than the whole home by removing and spraying the oak doors at the same time. To help you identify which door belongs in which room once the oak doors have been removed, put a number on the top of each one. The number should be covered with tape. 
Spraying interior doors vertically while they are standing in pairs allows you to cover both sides of the oak door quickly and easily. Use free stir sticks from the paint shop or any long enough piece of scrap wood to join each pair of doors together at their top edges. Drill a stir stick into the top side of each set of doors to keep them upright. Place the doors at a 90-degree angle. One person may more easily connect the oak door tops in pairs by themselves and using this technique, all of the doors can be sprayed, on both sides, in a single spraying session. They can also be sprayed flat and kept on a drying rack. You won't have to worry about paint dripping if you spray oak doors flat, but this method may take longer depending on your setup. You can spray both sides of a special drying rack without having to wait for one side to dry, just like you would if you were standing the item up. Much less room is needed when interior doors are sprayed flat than when oak doors are placed in pairs around the room. The doors are easily stacked and include a drying rack. If the doors are heavy, the biggest drawback is that turning them over to spray the other side can take two persons. A prime coat is not required if you are spray painting interior oak doors that have already been primed or painted. In such an instance, all that is required is a little sanding, followed by two coats of long-lasting inside paint. Doors that haven't been painted but have been stained and lacquered need to be primed with an oil-based primer, then sanded. 
Spray painting oak doors require additional preparation work since the grain must be covered. When the paint is sprayed over oak's exposed grain, the color looks awful. Grain filler should always be applied in at least one layer to the grain to prevent the paint from showing through the deep fractures. Whenever I prepare and spray-paint wood, I apply grain filler. Choosing the right tip size is crucial when using an airless sprayer to coat doors. A tip that is overly large wastes paints and blasts excessive amounts of overspray everywhere. The secret is to perfect your application technique and choose a tip that swiftly and cleanly sprays paint onto doors. Doors should be sprayed from top to bottom, moving from one side to the other. With each pass, always overlap your spray fan by between 30 and 50%. You can also spray doors from edge to edge, but I believe that spraying from top to bottom is simpler and doesn't put as much pressure on the pistol trigger. It's crucial to paint your doors using high-quality paint. Walls take more abuse than doors do, so the paint has to be long-lasting and washable. You should use self-leveling paint when spraying inside doors. The paint won't spread out over the surface into a smooth finish without self-leveling paint when it dries.
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