We'll demonstrate how to construct trim for interior and exterior door types and windows mostly of MDF. We won't demonstrate how to create the base since most home improvement stores and lumberyards have at least one kind of primed, broad baseboard. However, if you'd like, you may also create your own baseboard using the methods we've provided here. MDF that is 1/2 in. and 3/4 in. thick, as well as some 1x3 timber that may be painted, are required for this project. We advise using wood for the stool instead of MDF since it can handle some moisture from condensation on windows. Although poplar, birch, and maple would also work well, we utilized pine. Using your cutting list, you can calculate how much material you'll need, but as a general rule of thumb, you can cut the components for four to five windows from a single 4 x 8-foot sheet of MDF. MDF is cumbersome, and whole sheets are difficult to handle. At the home center, request that the sheets be split in half lengthwise. Remove any leftover nails from the door and window jambs and pry off the old trim. Sand the face of the jambs smooth if there is a paint or finish ridge to make room for the new trim. The doors and windows that require another trim should be listed. After that, take a measurement of the distance between the jambs and record it in your list. The first step after removing the old moldings is to measure each opening and make a purchasing list and cutting list. It's simple to make the cutting list by just increasing the width of the apertures if you're cautious to complete the arithmetic correctly. 
We provide how much to increase the width within the jambs for each component of the apron, stool, and head casing components in the cutting list we gave for a window. Because you'll be using fractions, the math might take a while. Consider downloading a building calculator software for your smartphone if you need assistance with arithmetic while trimming out many apertures. To determine how many feet of each trim part you'll need, use the list of components you generated. The MDF sheet should next be cut into the appropriate number of strips. To account for waste and errors, it's a good practice to round up your totals by roughly 20 percent. Cut these strips to the appropriate lengths using a miter saw. Make sure to provide a matching window or door number to every component on your project. Rips MDF strips using a table saw while using your cutting list as a reference. Wear a mask and, if at all feasible, relocate your cutting and routing activities outside since cutting MDF generates a lot of fine dust. Put an exhaust fan in the window if you must cut inside. A port for attaching a vacuum hose was present on our router. If not, you may be able to purchase an attachment that will work with your router. Use a miter saw to trim the components to length after tearing them. As you proceed, label the components to prevent misunderstanding later. Make careful you sand the MDF strips smooth if your table saw leaves saw marks around the edge. The router bits' guiding bearings follow the edges, and if they are uneven or bumpy, the resulting won't be smooth either. Locate a large, level work table so you can fasten things to it. As previously shown, attach a stop and a backer board to the work surface. Provide sure the trim has a little overhang to the work surface to make space for the bearing that guides the router bit. 
To keep the trim in place and provide the router a flat surface, sandwich the trim part between pieces of MDF. Align the ends of the trim piece and the two MDF strips with care, ensuring sure that the ends extend slightly beyond the work surface to provide an area for the bearing on the router bit guide. the strips to the work surface using screws. To keep the trim piece in place, add a stop behind it. To form the end of the trim, move the router across it from left to right. The form should then be routed on the other end after flipping the trim end to end. Two 2x4 lengths should be cut to the same (3 in.) width as the bottom window apron before being joined together with screws. The bottom window apron section should be clamped to the 2x4s after toe-screwing them to the work table. With the router, you can now effortlessly shape the long edge and both ends. As you route the thin ends, the 2x4s provide the support required to keep the router level. The most important instruments for this project are basic router bits. Simple router bits like a cove, round-over, and classic ogee may be used to shape the edges of affordable MDF to create the components for a traditional trim makeover. Gather the four head casing components and set them out on your work table. Apply adhesive to the edges that will be joining, then use 1-1/2-in. trim nails to secure them. Make careful to position the components so that the end reveals (overhangs) are straight before nailing them together. After attaching the stool to the apron assembly, glue and nail the top window apron to the lower window apron. Ensure that the end overhangs are uniform. 
To identify the trim edge and create a 3/16-in reveal, mark each corner of the window with a pencil 3/16 in inside the jamb. On brief lengths of masking tape, indicate the window's center and the assembly's center as well. Align the reveal markings on the stool with the center marks. After that, fasten the assembly in place by nailing through the apron and into the wall frame under the window. A casing piece should be cut an extra inch or two long. Place it on the stool and make a reveal mark on the top. With care to maintain a uniform reveal from top to bottom, snip the side casing to length on a miter saw and fasten it in place. Use the same procedure to mark, snip, and set up the casing on the other side. Make sure the fillet equally overhangs the side casings as you center the head casing assembly over the window. Then drive a nail into the wall frame above the window through the head casing assembly. Plaster blocks placed under the side casings of doors and other openings will complete the traditional appearance. By joining strips of MDF that are 1/2 in. thick and 3/4 in. thick, you may create the 1-1/4 in. thick plinths. Create a cove on the top edge after that. To create a little offset where the casing sits on the blocks, make the plinths approximately 1/4 in. broader than the casing. How simple it is to install the trim will amaze you. Nail on the base plinth before beginning to trim the door or other apertures. These plinth blocks were created by joining pieces of 3/4-inch and 1/2-inch MDF with glue and routing a cove shape into the top edge. If you need to finish numerous doors, create a number of blocks by first cutting 1/2-in.- and 3/4-in.-wide strips. 
We constructed our blocks 7-1/2 inches tall and glued them together using MDF, which is a bit broader than that height. Once the adhesive has dried, trim the edges of the strip to the proper width using a table saw. The cove will then be routed along one edge. Cut the blocks to a final width of 4-1/4 inches. By cutting and attaching the side casings and nailing on the head assembly, complete the door apertures in the same manner as the windows. The baseboard installation and painting are the only remaining tasks after that.
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