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marble floor ceramic tiles | buy at a cheap price

Marble tiles are commonly used for the floor as it gives a marvelous look to the house. Installing correctly these tiles is important as natural marble tiles are expensive compared to other types of tiles. Installing marble tile is similar to installing other types of tiles, such as ceramic or porcelain. In fact, these steps are very simple. Once the subfloor is ready, the tiles are glued, grouted, and sealed. If you've installed tile before, chances are you already have most of the tools you need to install marble tile. The cost of real marble floor tiles can vary greatly depending on the color and style of the tile. Some logs are relatively inexpensive, costing only $4-5 per square foot, but if you choose a very unusual log from an exotic location, it can also cost $75 or more per square foot. But standard marble tiles from major home improvement centers typically sell for between $5 and $20 per square foot. Natural stone like marble is a more difficult tile to cut, requires an electric wet saw, and can be rented for a relatively low daily or weekly rents. But wet saws aren't terribly expensive, and you might be tempted to invest in your own saw, especially if you're looking to do more tiling work.
  1. Prepare the Subfloor
Marble floor tiles (like all floor tiles) require a smooth, flat, waterproof base for installation. In most cases, this will require removing the existing flooring from the subfloor layer, which is usually plywood or MDF. Once you've exposed the wooden subfloor, cover it with a layer of cement board to add rigidity and moisture resistance to the floor. A cement board will not prevent moisture from passing through it - it is not a vapor or moisture barrier - but it will not be damaged by moisture like wood. Cement boards are also designed to bond well to the fine mortar adhesive you will use to install the marble tiles. Because marble is heavy, your subfloor must be very strong. This may require structural work to reinforce the joists supporting the subfloor before installing the tiles.
  1. Create Reference Lines
Your installation will look better if the tiles radiate out from the center of the room, rather than starting abruptly from a wall. To achieve this symmetrical effect, you need to create leading lines on the surface of the cement board underlayment. Find the center of two opposite walls and mark the path between them with a chalk line, dividing the room in half. Then measure to the center of this line and use a T-square to draw a vertical line at the mark, using a pencil. Use the pencil line as a guide to draw a chalk line on the floor, dividing the floor into four equal quadrants. Check your layout by testing the laying of full tiles along two wall-to-wall reference lines. If the last row of tiles on a wall is less than a few inches wide, adjust the chalk line grid as needed so that the tiles along the wall are an acceptable width for your liking.
  1. Mix and Spread the Mortar
Blend the thin-set mortar agreeing to the manufacturer's instructions. Mix only a little at a time, and more if necessary. Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the floor, starting where the guidelines meet in the center of the room. As you work, utilize the indented edge of the trowel to make grooves within the mortar. This will increase the bonding strength between the cement board and the marble bottom. On a 12" or smaller square marble tile, a 1/4" notched trowel will create a sufficiently wide groove. However, if you have larger tiles or are using uneven or naturally cracked material, use a 1/2 inch notched trowel to create wider, deeper grooves in the adhesive.
  1. Set the First Tile
Apply enough mortar to easily cover the bottom of a single tile, making sure it is chipped across its entire surface. Gently press the first tile into place so that its two edges line up with the chalk lines in the corners of the layout. As you press down, turn the tile slightly to ensure it sits properly on the mortar bed below.
  1. "Set" the Tile with a Rubber Mallet
A rubber mallet is a large hammer with a soft rubber tip. Use it to lightly tap the surface of the marble tile to press it more firmly into the mortar. However, be careful not to hit hard, as marble is a relatively soft material and can easily crack. Avoid moving the tiles when setting them up.
  1. Install Additional Tiles
Continue mortaring each tile and placing tiles before moving on to the next. Follow the guideline towards the wall and use it as a guide to maintaining straight placement. Use tile spacers to maintain consistent spacing between tiles. Spacers should be selected based on the width you choose for the joint. Spacers help ensure grout lines are clean and even.
  1. Install the Remaining Full-Size Tiles
Every three or four tiles, use a 2x4 board to make sure they are at an even height. Place the board on the tile and tap the board lightly with a rubber mallet. If the marble is polished, you may want to cover the front of the wood with a mat to prevent scratches. You can also do this in multiple rows when you have installed more tiles. Once you reach the first-row wall, note the end gaps that may require custom-cut pieces. Then return to the center point of the guide and continue placing tiles near the first row. Take a moment every few tiles to make sure all your lines come together and the entire floor is neat and cohesive. During the work, be careful not to step on the installed tiles. Generally, marble floor tiles should be left for at least 48 hours after installation. Therefore, you must be careful not to tile in corners that you cannot escape from. Be sure to give yourself a way to go; the last quadrant you work on should be where the door is.
  1. Cut Tiles with a Wet Saw
Utilize a wet tile saw to cut tiles as required. You can buy a small wet saw for less than $100, but many DIYers only rent one by the day or week. Smaller portable saws capable of making basic straight cuts on tiles up to 12 inches. Rental charges may include a flat saw charge as well as a pro-rated diamond blade wear charge. For difficult cuts or if you don't want to use a saw, ask your tile supplier if they will do it for you. Special hole saws with diamond cut edges are available if you need to drill into marble tiles, as may be necessary where pipes run through floors. The hole saw is simply installed in the electric drill. Be sure to cut at a slow speed to prevent the hole saw from overheating.
  1. Remove Excess Mortar
If excess adhesive seeps through the gaps between the tiles, use a paint stick or utility knife to remove it. After all tiles are installed, allow the thin-set mortar to dry completely following the manufacturer's instructions. Do not step on the floor during this time, or you may move or smash the tiles.
  1. Seal the Marble
Marble is porous and numerous materials can enter the surface of the stone causing changeless stains. Therefore, it should be sealed with a good quality marble tile sealer before grouting. If grout is used before the marble is sealed, it can seriously stain marble tiles. If you have polished marble, apply a very thin coat of sealer. Use a foam brush to smooth out any puddles or tiny air bubbles that appear on the surface, as they can dry into permanent features. Polished and polished marble surfaces will be more forgiving, but the same rules apply. It is generally best to seal marble tiles at least twice (perhaps even several times), waiting for each coat to dry before applying a new coat. This makes a solid defensive layer on the surface of the material. You may need to reseal the tiles every 6-12 months, depending on room throughput.
  1. Grout the Tile
Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. As with tile, use unsanded grout if joint width is 1/8 inch or less; mortar for larger joints. As with mortar, mix as much as you can in about 15 or 20 minutes - the point at which grout begins to set. Use the grout float to apply the grout to the joints, using a sweeping motion to press it into the joint. Placing the tool slightly on the edge can help push the grout down. Try to direct as much of the mixture as possible into the grooves and wipe any excess from the tile. Ideally, the joints between the tiles should be completely filled with grout, with no gaps.
  1. Wipe the Tiles Clean
Use a large, slightly dampened grout sponge to lightly wipe the marble tile surface and remove excess grout. Be careful not to let any moisture seep into the grout line as this will make the mixture cloudy and leaching. Also, try to avoid inadvertently removing grout from joints when using the sponge - just focus on the tile surface. Allow grout to harden as directed.
  1. Seal the Grout
Check the grout manufacturer's prescribed waiting time before sealing the grout. Waiting 7 days is not uncommon. Seal the grout with a foam brush following the manufacturer's instructions.

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