The selection of leather available today is impressive, from synthetic vegan leather to varieties like nubuck. But one durable thing that is different is patent leather. Characterized by its shiny appearance and unique physical properties, this material has recently come back into fashion. Walking down a busy street, you might soon spot a pedestrian in a sleek trench coat or patent leather handbag. What is patent leather? What is the advantage? How is patent leather made? A coated leather whose brilliance makes it instantly recognizable. It is almost waterproof and is known to be flexible, soft, and requires little maintenance. 
These properties come from coatings applied to leather, which were historically oil-based but are now often synthetic (often involving a combination of polyurethane and acrylic). This shiny leather is usually solid black but can be found in many other colors. While patent leather has been synonymous with wealth, or at least greatness think designer shoes from French and Italian fashion houses the material is now ubiquitous and affordable cost reduction results from innovations in the production process, but more on that later. The benefits of patent leather:
- Versatility
- Low maintenance
- Waterproof
- An iconic and shiny look
- Dirt-resistant
- Price point
Patent leather has many desirable properties. The acrylic in the coating applied to patent leather makes it very flexible, meaning it is less prone to cracking and peeling than natural leather. Because patent leather is thin and flexible, makers can use it to create everything from belts to boots. So, is patent leather durable? The answer is debatable, but its water and stain-resistant properties certainly suggest some degree of toughness. It should be noted that these qualities come entirely from the lacquer, which provides a protective layer that prevents moisture and dirt from penetrating the fibers of the leather. Dirt from patent leather surfaces can be easily removed with mild soap and a damp cloth. Unlike natural leather, it does not require conditioning - the conditioner cannot even penetrate the surface. 
This brings us to a bargain price. As mentioned, most patent leather products these days are made from various inexpensive synthetic types of leather. Only high-end patent leather products can start with a full-grain natural leather base. Disadvantages of patent leather:
- Fading and darkening
- Easy to wear and scratch
- No patina
- Will get sticky
- Folds and cracks are irreversible
Patent leather degrades over time, and because the outer covering is made of a combination of plastics, it can be extremely difficult to repair. The discoloration is a common phenomenon. For example, color migration can occur when you leave a light-colored patent leather handbag next to a dark-colored product for an extended time (see image below). Discoloration can also occur if the material is regularly exposed to UV light - keep this in mind if you are a sun worshipper. Another downside is that this shiny leather is susceptible to scratches and scuffs (although minor issues can be fixed with treatment). Although cracks and creases are unlikely to form, once they do appear, they are often irreversible. Given the glossy finish, you might also be wondering, is patent leather sticky? Interestingly, it easily becomes sticky: the result of the gradual degradation of the plastic on the surface. Unlike some varieties of natural leather, patent leather never acquires a patina because the surface is impermeable: enough to dissuade some leather lovers from adopting it. Finally, while natural leather has a strong earthy smell, its shiny cousins often have a less pleasant chemical smell. You guessed it - it also comes down to the plastic coating. 
Patent leather
The history of patent leather is a history of gradual and continuous improvement. In 1793 the material was mentioned in the short-lived English literary magazine The Bee, about a Mr. Hand of Birmingham, England, who patented a new type of "soft leather to make it waterproof." This is how patent leather supposedly got its name. At that time, it was used to make luxury shoes for the privileged upper class. The next three decades saw a surge in innovation. In 1799, inventor Edmund Prior received a legal patent establishing a new coating technology. His method relies on combining mold and cooking oil and adding oil varnish to the leather. Then, London inventor Charles Mollersten combined whale oil, linseed oil, lampblack, and horse oil to give his leather a particularly shiny finish. In 1805 he also received a legal patent. However, Seth Boyden is widely regarded as a pivotal figure in popularizing patent leather and paving the way for commercial production, particularly in the United States. His coating method revolved around the repeated application of linseed oil. Ironically, he never patented the process. Wider scientific developments related to plastic applications led inventors to experiment with synthetic coatings in the late 19th century. The effect is to reduce the cost of producing patent leather, paving the way for mass consumption of patent leather. The discovery of polyurethane in 1937 was a key step in this process. This polymer remains invaluable today for the manufacture of patent leather. While patent leather was historically made from high-quality natural calfskin, it was gradually replaced by artificial or "imitation" (cheaper) leather in the late 20th century and beyond. 
Since the natural properties of high-quality leather are negated during the application of topcoats, this has no overall effect on the product's longevity. The advantage is that faux patent leather products are much cheaper. Many consumer products are made from patent leather. The shiny, luxurious finish of the material is perfect for formal accessories. Still, it can also produce a range of everyday items: coats, backpacks, belts, wallets, and watch straps, to name a few. Footwear is probably the best-documented use of patent leather. As early as the early 1800s, cordwainers took advantage of the shiny appearance of the material to produce high-end dance and dress shoes. The association of patent leather with opulence has lasted for decades. Men's tuxedo shoes are almost always finished in shiny patent leather. And the iconic pump, designed by French fashion house Christian Louboutin, is known for its lacquered soles. Patent leather fashion is again being popularized by online retailers such as ASOS and Zara, as well as fashion giants; Hermès designs and sells patent leather handbags, Coach makes luxury handbags, and Valentino makes shoes. Today's cyclical fashion continues to influence the patent leather hype of the sixties. For a decade, miniskirts, knee-high boots, and trench coats made from the material have significantly reshaped women's cultural values and social status. 
Durable patent leather
Suppose your precious patent leather derby shoes look harder and less durable than before. In that case, fortunately, the protective coat of paint that protects all patent leather items means that they are relatively easy to clean. Many common household items, from petroleum jelly to cooking oils and liquid soaps, can be used as cleaners—no need to replenish broken fibers with a moisturizing conditioner like Animal Leather. Start using a soft brush (never hard bristles, which can cause scratches) and gently remove any dirt or debris, especially cracks and crevices. Add a small amount of mild liquid soap to warm water in a bowl. Lightly dampen a microfiber cloth and spot test an inconspicuous area to determine if any lint or color has transferred to the surface. If it didn't fail the test, gently clean the rest of the surface and allow the product to dry for a day before the next use. Soft baby wipes and wet wipes are two other handy solutions for cleaning patent leather if the above methods are unavailable. After use, wipe off any residual surface moisture with a dry cloth or even a paper towel; otherwise, the humidity will stain and reduce the shine. Remember to read the ingredients to ensure no toxic chemicals are in the wipes. We recommend applying a patent leather cleaner with a microfiber cloth for stubborn stains. Wear naturally occurs when patent leather accessories are worn regularly but are generally easy to wear. Try applying a small amount of petroleum jelly to a microfiber cloth and rub in light circular motions over the affected area. Let the petroleum jelly sit on the surface for about 20 to 30 minutes. Then wipe it with a dry cloth, and the surface should be free of wear. For severe abrasions, use olive oil instead. Arguably the best part of patent leather is the signature, luxurious sheen. To restore it, we recommend that you purchase a patent leather cleaner. 
You should apply a generous amount to a microfiber cloth and rub it into your product in a circular motion. Let it dry for about 5 minutes (you'll know it's time because the surface will get a little hazy), then buff the entire surface with the dry part of the cloth. Animal leather intended for patent leather undergoes a tanning process much the same as almost any other type of leather. You can read more about tanning here. But in essence, once the leathers arrive at the tannery, they are ready for tanning - which involves at least soaking, liming, and softening - and then go through the tanning stage itself, during which they are made into leather. At this point, different chemical treatments and techniques can be used to produce a variety of leathers, from vinyl to bonding. But the tanned leather is covered with a patented coating (synthetic resin coating), giving it a unique shiny appearance and glossy texture. Previously, applying protective paint was a time-consuming manual process. The tanners start with high-quality cowhide and gradually coat it with an oil-based varnish - sometimes up to 20 coats. Wet leather should be dried on the stove or outdoors when a coat is applied. Modern technology is mechanized and more efficient. Instead of natural oils, tanneries use a synthetic blend of polyurethane and acrylic to create the patented finish. The former is responsible for the stiffness and signature glossy look, while the latter provides the necessary degree of flexibility. The challenge for tanners is to strike the perfect balance between the two, ensuring the leather has the right texture and properties. Spraying was the most popular method for applying protective coatings. However, this process is inefficient in providing the required thick coating and depth of gloss. The almost fully mechanized curtain coating technique is now preferred. The tanners begin by filling cans with liquid synthetic paint. The rawhide moves on a conveyor belt under the cans and is evenly coated with lacquer. The wet leather continues along the conveyor belt into the heating tunnel, where it quickly solidifies. This process is repeated twice, and the final coat provides the desired gloss finish and waterproof quality. Patent leather is a popular material because it is waterproof, extremely easy to maintain, and has a unique visual effect among other leathers. When entering the leather goods market, it should be assessed whether you prefer the properties of this (usually) synthetic leather or natural animal leather.