With the proper tools and safety procedures, as well as following the manufacturer's instructions, an experienced do-it-yourselfer can successfully install shingles. Learn the fundamentals of installing roof shingles, as well as advice on planning, safety, and material estimation. Preparing for Shingle Installation
- Check for any necessary permits or inspections for your project.
- Understand and follow all applicable building codes.
- Plan your work ahead of time. Some materials can only be exposed to the elements for a limited time before shingles must be installed.
- Recruit help for the project. Shingle installation is a difficult task, and roofing supplies can be heavy and bulky.
- Make sure you have a plan in place for disposing of debris. You will need to dispose of a significant amount of waste if you are removing existing shingles. Consider renting a dumpster or a dump trailer.
- Inform your neighbors about your project ahead of time. Shingle installation can be both wasteful and noisy.
- The noise and vibrations produced during shingle removal and installation may bother your pets. Consider keeping them away from the house while it is being built.
- Remove any objects from around the house that could be damaged by falling debris, such as automobiles, grills, patio furniture, and potted plants. Keep your bushes safe.
- Secure any items affixed to your home's interior walls to prevent vibrations from dislodging them.
- Tarps can be used to collect nails and other debris that falls from the roof.
To count the number of shingles needed, measure the length and width of each roof section to determine the total roof area. Multiply the length by the width of each section, then add the results. 
Divide the entire area by 100 to get the number of 100-foot-square areas or squares. The outcome will indicate the number of shingle squares required. The number of bundles or units of shingles required to cover the space will be included with the roofing materials you choose, but you can make an educated guess. Multiply the total number of squares by three to get an idea of how many bundles or units of standard shingles are needed for each square. Knowing the square footage will also help you estimate the amount of underlayment needed for the project. Knowing the roof's perimeter will allow you to purchase the proper amount of drip edge flashing and leak prevention. You'll also need starter shingles or regular 3-tab shingles to cut down on starting shingles. Each roof will have these installed along the eaves, rakes, or ends. The procedures for installing shingles on a roof are outlined below, but they can vary depending on the manufacturer of the roofing product, local building codes, and other variables such as climate and roof pitch. Always adhere to the guidelines specific to your region as well as those of the roofing product's manufacturer. Work your way over and up the roof as you install. 
Step 1: removing previous shingles Unless you are installing a new roof, you must remove the existing shingles and underlayment before replacing them. You could divide the roof into sections and clear each section separately. A roofing shovel is used to remove the shingles, nails, and underlayment. Slide the shovel under the existing roofing material and pry it off the roof deck. Avoid damage by exercising caution near vents, chimneys, skylights, siding, and other similar structures. Remove the flashing that surrounds it. If it's in good condition, you might be able to reuse it, but it's easier to install new flashing. Step 2: Clear the Roof of Debris Remove any remaining materials that the shovel missed. Use a claw hammer to remove any remaining shingle or underlayment fasteners. Sweep the roof deck clean of dirt and debris. Step 3: Inspect the rooftop deck Check the condition of the roof deck, which is the wooden base of the roof. Check for any protruding nails from the deck that could damage the new materials and makes any necessary repairs. Check your shingle deck specifications to ensure that your roof deck is compliant. 
Step 4: Install the Eave Drip Edge Flashing and a Leak Barrier. To protect vulnerable parts of the roof from ice jams and wind-driven precipitation, install a leak barrier (also known as an ice-and-water barrier) along the eaves. It must typically extend from the eaves to 24 inches within the outside walls, but check your local building code for specifics. You may need to install additional leak prevention in certain areas, such as where ice dams or heavy snow are a concern, or if your roof has a low pitch. To make the material more manageable, cut it into 10- or 20-foot lengths. Allow the parts to lay flat for a few minutes before rerolling them for installation. Position the barrier with a chalk line to ensure that it properly covers the drip edge along the eaves. The ends must overlap, as specified. Remove the backing and apply the tape to the roof deck while avoiding bubbles and wrinkles. To ensure proper adhesion, use a hand roller. Install the fasteners specified along the back edge. If additional leak protection layers are required, overlap them as directed. Install as directed in rakes, valleys, chimneys, and where the roof meets the wall - anywhere the roof needs extra water protection. Step 5: Lay the underlayment and rake the drip edge flashing. 
The underlayment, also known as roofing felt, protects the rest of the roof from moisture. Install the underlayment on the deck, including rakes, sidewalls, hips, and ridges, according to the manufacturer's instructions, using the appropriate fasteners, such as cap nails. Keep the underlayment tight, straight, and free of bubbles and wrinkles. Depending on the pitch of the roof, each successive row of underlayment may need to be overlapped. The manufacturer may advise you to lap each succeeding row halfway over the previous row to improve water resistance. If you need two pieces of underlayment to finish a course or row, overlap the ends according to the manufacturer's instructions (for example, a 6-inch overlap) and make sure the joints in each row are properly staggered (for instance, offset by at least 6 feet from the joints in the previous course). Install drip edge flashing along the rakes (ends) of the roof after installing the underlayment. Step 6: Install Starter Shingles Install a course or row of starter shingles along the eaves and rakes, aligning them with the drip edge on the eaves and rakes, as directed by the manufacturer. Trimming the first starter shingle may be required to set the proper joint stagger for subsequent courses of shingles. Draw a chalk line to help with alignment. 
Step 7: Begin Shingle Installation Place the first row of shingles on top of the first course. To begin, install a complete shingle at one end of the roof. Align the first row of shingles' edges with the first row's edges. Butt the end of each course of shingle against the one before it. Trim the final shingle at the opposite end to the appropriate overhang length with a utility knife. Install roofing nails according to the manufacturer's instructions, using the recommended spacing, pattern, placement, and a number of nails for your location and roof pitch. For example, if you live in a windy area or have a steep roof, you may need to use six nails to secure the shingles. In some cases, the instructions may call for four nails. Depending on the slope of the roof and the manufacturer's instructions, you may also need to use roofing cement to keep the shingles in place. Step 8: Add more courses on shingles. Install additional courses of shingles, cutting and overlapping the first shingle of each course as directed. To ensure that the shingles are parallel to the eaves, use a chalk line. Each course's shingles must be staggered so that the joints and breaks are properly offset from those in the preceding course. 
Step 9: Install Shingles Around Pipes, Vents, and Other Roofing Elements When approaching existing roof pipe penetrations, measure and cut the shingles so that they fit snugly around the pipe. Attach a pipe collar or boot to the pipe, making sure it fits snugly, and secure it with nails. Apply a bead of roofing cement around the pipe collar and under the bottom edge of the collar. Install the remaining shingles, trimming as needed to fit the next course around the pipe. Install flashing and shingles to direct water away from other penetrations, such as a vent, skylight, or chimney, according to the instructions. Step 10: Finish the shingle installation. Install shingles up to the ridge of the roof. Install on the opposite side of the roof once more. Install a ridge vent and ridge cap shingles according to the manufacturer's instructions. Step 11: Clean the Work Area Clear the debris from the gutters and the house's exterior. Check the area around the house and pick up any fasteners that fell from the roof before allowing people or animals back in. To collect the fasteners, you could use a magnetic sweeper. You can contact us if you have any questions regarding raw materials such as asphalt or bitumen. our sales executives will reply to you as soon as possible.